*This post may contain affiliate links, which means I'll receive a commission if you purchase through my link, at no extra cost to you. Please read full disclosure here.
This post is all about the Highland Backpacking Trail and includes the ultimate guide to hiking in Algonquin Provincial Park.
Hiking the Highland Backpacking Trail is always a highlight of my summer! It features some incredible lake views and untouched trails. There are multiple routes available whether you’re looking for a quick overnight, or long weekend trip. The Highland Backpacking Trail is one of three backpacking trails in Algonquin Provincial Park. The others include the Western Uplands Backpacking Trail and Eastern Pines Backpacking Trail. This post details a complete guide to backpacking in Algonquin Provincial Park and includes a trip report of my 4-day route on the Highland Backpacking Trail, camping at Provoking Lake and Head Lake.
About Algonquin Provincial Park
Algonquin Provincial Park is an iconic Ontario destination. Founded in 1893, the park protects over 7000 km of land including beautiful forests, thousands of freshwater lakes, and multiple species such as black bears, moose, loons and beavers. You can visit the park in any season, but I would recommend late summer and early fall. There are less mosquitoes and flies during these seasons and the fall colours in Algonquin are absolutely stunning. Whether you’re paddling in the backcountry or enjoying a day hike, Algonquin Provincial Park has so much to offer!
Highland Backpacking Trail Map and Trail Overview
The Highland Backpacking Trail consists of 2 loops. One loop is around Provoking Lake which is 19 km in length. The second is out to Head Lake and Harness Lake which is 35 km in length. You do not have to do the full loops, you can do sections of the trail as an out-and-back which is what I opted to do in the trip report I shared below.
See below for a Google map of reviewed campsites on the Highland Backpacking Trail and key stops mentioned in this post.
How To Get To Algonquin Provincial Park
Algonquin Provincial Park is a 3 hour drive from Toronto via the Ontario 400 North and Ontario 11. There are multiple stops along the way for fuel and food. There can be traffic so I recommend leaving as early as possible, especially if you plan to hike far on day one. On your way back South after your trip, I recommend you check out the famous Webers for a well deserved post-hike burger and poutine!
The access point for the trail is 32-Mew Lake (Highland). The parking lots is gravel and toilets are available. Drinking water refill can be found at the Canoe Lake access point which will be on your way to the trailhead if you’re entering from the West Gate. If you aren’t planning to drive, ParkBus offers a public transport option. You can check their site for timings, pricing and the closest stop to the trailhead.
Highland Backpacking Trail Camping Reservations, Permits and Rules
To make reservations for the Highland Backpacking Trail, create an account on the Ontario Parks website. Next, create a booking under reservations by selecting backcountry, hiking, Algonquin Provincial Park and access point 32-Mew Lake (Highland). You will also be asked to select your dates and party size, then you can book the route that works best for you. Note that hiking reservations are campsite specific, meaning the site that you book is the site you need to stay on. Reservations can be made up to 5 months in advance. My recommendation is to book as early as possible because the sites book up very quickly. You can learn more about Ontario Parks reservations here.
Here are some other important things you need to know prior to your trip. You can read all of the Algonquin Park Rules and Regulations here.
- Parking Permit: Ensure you have a valid parking permit if you plan to park your vehicle overnight in the access point parking lot.
- Camping Permit: You should either print and carry your camping permit, or have access to it on your phone.
- Park Advisory: Ensure you check the park advisory page before your trip. They post important information about trail conditions, water conditions and wildlife. You can also stop at the West Gate office on your way in to speak with a staff member about the park advisories and ask specific questions.
- No cans and bottles: These are not permitted in the backcountry so make sure you plan your food accordingly. Review the Leave No Trace Principles to ensure you are respecting other hikers by leaving the space as you found it, and protecting the park for future generations.
- Dogs must be kept on leash: Dogs need to be on leash to protect them, wildlife and other hikers. I hike with my dog with a hands-free leash. At camp I use a long line to ensure she stays safe.
- Use a bear can or URSACK: Black bears are very active in Algonquin Park. On the Highland Backpacking Trail, trees for bear hangs are not easy to find and a lot of damage has been caused by bad hang attempts. Instead use the more convenient and safer options of a bear can or URSACK. Don’t forget to bring bear spray! In Ontario, you have to buy this in store as it’s not available for shipping. You can typically find bear spray at Canadian Tire, Sport Chek, and MEC.
Gear Outfitter
My favourite gear outfitter in Algonquin Provincial Park is The Portage Outpost. They offer full outfitting packages if you need a complete set of gear. Additionally, they can even provide backpacking meals as part of your package. They cater more to canoe campers but if you contact them about backpacking they will be able to help you out. I’ve rented canoes from them for years and love their shop. Definitely stop in to check out their store on your way in, or out of the park! Another outfitting option is Algonquin Outfitters. They also offer great options for renting gear including backpacks, tents, sleeping bags and GPS devices.
Highland Backpacking Trail Tips
The Highland Backpacking Trail is well marked and the trail around Provoking Lake is well maintained. The trail is rated difficult due to the elevation and tough terrain. Past Provoking on the way to Head Lake the trail can be extremely muddy and overgrown. Ensure you are carrying a GPS device, map and compass. I would recommend trekking poles to help with the elevation on trail.
When I hiked the Provoking to Head trail last, we encountered leeches when we had to pass some still water locations. They ended up on my dog so ensure you watch for them. In addition, we also came across an inground wasp nest on trail which led to a few stings since we walked right over it. Ensure you are watching this part of the trail carefully and perhaps bring some extra items in your first aid kit.
As I stated in the above section, it is almost impossible to find a good bear hang tree so ensure you bring an alternative. We actually came across a food bag that had been torn up by some kind of animal, so we collected everything and packed it out in an extra trash bag. I really cannot emphasize enough how important proper food storage is so please ensure you are prepared!
We hope you are enjoying the free travel planning tips, guides and more!
If you’ve found this post helpful, please consider contributing to our site.
4-Day Route
This 4 day out-and-back route is a fun challenge with camps at two beautiful lakes. If you’re new to backpacking I would suggest only completing the Provoking Lake section of this route. But, if you are more experienced then this full route will be a fun challenge.
Day 1:
- Drive to Access Point #32-Mew Lake (Highland)
- Hike to Provoking Falls, enjoy lunch at the falls
- Hike to the west side of Provoking Lake to camp for the night
- Day 1 distance: 6 km
Day 2:
- Pack up camp
- Hike to to Head Lake, enjoy a lunch at one of the lookout points on the trail
- Camp at Head Lake
- Day 2 distance: 9 km
Day 3:
- Pack up camp
- Return to Provoking Lake the way you came stopping again to have lunch at a lookout point
- Camp on the west side of Provoking Lake
- Day 3 distance: 9 km
Day 4:
- Pack up camp
- Return to trailhead, stop at Provoking Falls for your last lunch of the trip
- Drive home
- Day 4 distance: 6 km
Total distance: 30 km
Elevation gain: 2700 ft
Campsite Reviews
During this 4-day route I stayed at the following sites – Provoking-06 on night 1 and 3, Head-02 on night 2.
Provoking – 06
Provoking has to be one of my favourite lakes in Algonquin Park. It is so quiet, clean and peaceful. Provoking-06 is a great site because it’s on a point meaning it gets a great breeze which is awesome to mitigate how buggy the site is, but makes getting a fire going a little hard. There are quite a few perfect hammock spots on the campsite. Additionally, there are at least 4 tent sites making this a great site for a large group.
There is an excellent swimming rock on this site that we really enjoyed. Also, the thunderbox was in great condition looking brand new. Overall, this is a great site if you can book it. Otherwise it looked like almost every site on the west side of the lake was great!
Head – 02
Head Lake is a major favourite of mine when I’m canoe camping (see this canoe route), so I was really excited to hike to it. This site wasn’t as nice as the ones you can access via canoe. Firstly, it was on a hill so finding a flat tentsite was challenging. Although, there were many trees for hammock camping. Also, since this site is farther away from the trailhead, the thunderbox had seen better days. The lakefront was really pretty though with a great (although shallow) swimming spot! We walked past a few other sites that seemed to be flatter so I would attempt to book those before Head-02, but overall it was still a great spot!
This post detailed how to hike the Highland Backpacking Trail and included the complete guide to backpacking in Algonquin Provincial Park.
